Coast to coast illustrated diary Our Kit list and recommended gear

High Pyrenees - mountainbug.com

Click the thumbnail images for a large version	06/08/02 Lac d’Artouste à Refuge Wallon. We made the short hop up the Refuge d’Arrémoulit* (2304m) in the morning fog passing tents that were obviously put up in a hurry in the limited camping space near the refuge (many straight on the granite), and popped in for a bowl of hot chocolate, it’s a remote but great little refuge surrounded by smooth granite boulders and with its own lake out front (still with a little iceberg at the far end - in August). When we emerged the fog had miraculously vanished and we made the quick scramble up over the col d’Arrémoulit and into Spain.  From the col there’s a breath taking view down to crystal blue lakes, filled by waterfalls falling from the high ice encrusted facing cliffs. The lakes are dammed but beautiful (if a little nippy) after scrambling down to them you follow them out to the next amazing view down into the starkly different – Spanish gorges and distant peaks. The Spanish side is a much drier dustier view, but no less dramatic, the dominant landform is of massive canyons that run all the way to the plains, there are a whole set of European Grand Canyons. The Ordessa valley is the most dramatic and famous example. The Route to Refuge Wallon* swings up the gorge to another large dam, to meet the GR11 at the Spanish Refugio de Respumoso*, from where is streaks up the valley heading up the right hand spur to go for the Col de La Fâche (2664m). the first part of the climb is an easy gradient but the path becomes increasingly steep and rocky, after about an hours climb you reach a ‘lip’ , beyond which is a small lake. Even in Early August there was still snow here and even mini icebergs giving an eyrie electric-blue glow to the lake. Beyond the lake is a short further scramble up to the col, there are wonderful views in both directions. The decent is along a well marked and surprisingly gentle path (luckily for us as Em’s ankles were feeling the back-pack and long walks of the previous days – a break soon), after about an hour and three quarters you arrive at the Refuge Wallon (1860m). it’s a great days walking passing Palas (2974m) Balaïtous (3144m), and of course the refreshing and beautiful lakes of the Grande Fâche and Respumoso.	Click the thumbnail images for a large version
	07/08/02 Refuge Wallon à Cauterets Its an easy walk down the tree lined steep sided valley – best to set off early though as any peace and tranquillity that this lovely has (and it has lots – and great views, river and wildlife) is quickly lost due to the massive car park and cable car ride just that enter at its base. Cauterets is a spar town and walking down past the countless waterfalls you often get a whiff of the sulphur that first gave the town its fame in the late 19th century. It’s a good place to stock up on food (go to the covered market square and the excellent – no really excellent bakers opposite!), and there are all the services you could need down there.
	08/08/02 Cauterets à Luz-St-Sauveur It was an up and over routine jumping from one valley bottom to the next that holds Luz. It’s a good path up through pine Forest to the ski station at the top and then down cool little ancient cobbled tracks on the Luz side. After about 1¾ hours of descent from the ski post, you arrive at the ancient village of , where they were preparing for a crepe festival when we arrived (very handy) . There’s drinking water here and a gîte d’étape ('05.62.92.34.79) that isn handy if you want to stay out of the very touristy but interesting village of Luz. Luz is another Pyrenean spar town, that ends up crowded by tourists trudging up from Lourdes to ‘do the Cirques’ by car, but it is useful for stocking up at – and buying walking poles in our case (very much recommended! I was a bit sceptical about them, but when carrying a pack for a long way or having to navigate slippery rivers and snow they are indispensable.). We met with my parents again here and headed up the valley for a look about and more nice food and a real bed for the night. Thank you Mum and Dad, please come and visit again!
	10/08/02 Luz-St-Sauveur à Barèges (and on a bit) There’s a steep ascent out of town following the GR10 then you sweep along contouring the valleys on a great path passing farm buildings half buried back into the hill (avalanche protection). There are a few sections where you can see the path you’ll be on, on the far side of the valley, but have to go all the way up to the end to turn back down onto it – a bit annoying but great scenery and the track is suitable for a quick pace (or a leisurely one with lots of lingering lunch breaks). The village is about 8km N.E. of Luz by the road (tempting but boring), which runs straight up the vallée de Bastan towards the Col du Tormalet (of Tour-de-france fame). The pretty mountain village is an all in one sports centre with opportunities for bike rental, riding, touring, rafting, squash, walking, snowshoeing, skiing – and, above all, parapente. There’s even a 'military'* hospital (the highest spa in the Pyrenees) that was et up by Napoleon should you forget to put the parachute on, or want a great way of relaxing tired legs! We stopped for some bread in the village and carried on up the valley past parapenters drifting down from the peaks (We really have to do that!! What better way to see the mountains than becoming one of the eagles that cruise down from the peaks?). After the ski slope region and the little botanical garden we trundled up to a plateaux just below the nature reserve* perimeter and before the steep climb to the lake to make camp (you can carry on up, if your feet aren’t to sore, and stay in a couple of huts that remain from the dam builders – one is kitted out with a fire place and a sleeping area and looks out over the lake, a very nice spot with room for a tent or two as well). We set out the tent in the rain and watched as the evening prematurely darkened and the rain turned to sleet.
	11/08/02 Wet and cold à Lac de l’Oule We packed in the wet and scrambled up the 300m to the lake to make breakfast in the little hut, excellent day for porridge (All very cosy)! After breakfast as we set off towards the col more snow set in (it is August isn’t it? - I suppose we should have been expecting snow - Néouvielle translates as ‘old snow’ from an ancient local language). We climbed to the col, grateful of our poles (we saw one other couple often with their hands in the snow), past beautiful shimmering tarns amidst swirling plumes of snow and encased pines and cairns that were jealously holding their windward blankets of glittering icy snow. Excuse the poetic language but it really was a spectacle to behold! After the climb to the windswept col (where I think we did a great impression of Himalayan climbers fighting a blizzard) the sun broke from the cloud and we traversed the hills through stands of pine above the crystal blue lakes of the reserve. The final decent was made to Lac de l’Oule in the late afternoon where we are now sat enjoying the evening sun and the chance to lay out all our soaking gear.
	12/08/02 Lac de l’Oule à St-Lary-SoulanQ In bright morning sun we made our way up from the lake, the view becomes increasingly impressive as you rise above the gleaming lake passing through glades of pine and eventually traversing around to the open grassy slopes (winter pistes) that lead to the col. Just at the col, by the deserted ski lifts, we hit a cloud. You could walk ten meters over the col and be in thick, cold fog or back-up and sun bathe! We went in and remained in the stranded cloud for the next couple of hours until we were back down near the valley floor. Just before reaching the very pretty little village of Soulan we met two old french hikers on their way up - one was proudly carrying a beautiful mushroom that he had liberated from the woods on his way through. I passed on my admiration for his good find as he passed us cooking up our soup in the fog, his reply was to suggest his mushroom would go very well with our lunch, he would be out to long to bother carrying it for tea. With many thanks we had a great mushroom omelet that night down at the campsite in St-Lary Soulan*, washed down with a welcome Hoegarden (one of many welcome luxuries offered by the super market right across the road from the campsite.
	13/08/02 St-Lary Soulan à Ourtiga (under the Pic de Brudaillet) A sunny day from the start! after a luxury lie in we packed up and toured the village at the best time 7-8am, before the crowds and blowup play grounds but with all the bakeries open! We dragged our stomachs up and Eastwards out of the valley along the GR10 which follows an old tree-lined route up the hillside right to the top. Once the col is gained (after using many cow mangled paths) a great view awaits, you can see back to St-lary and the conquered hills and then Eastwards down to Loudenvielle* and its sparkling lake with the next range of high mountains as its backdrop (the Haute Garonne). From Loudenvielle you walk up past the post office and up the well marked route to Germ, there's some shade but its a steep climb and the little fountains in the old village are welcome! After Germ the path heads up out of the village and then almost horizontal southeastwards around the hillside. After about 20 minutes you arrive at a little lake then follow the track uphill to the great little Ourtiga Cabane (1620m). We camped by the hut in its private cirque, its in an amazing setting, a wide open bowl with cliffs and cascades dropping down into it, and as we arrived the setting sun was leaving a bright pink hew all about the cirque.
	14/8/02 Ourtiga à Lac d'Oo and Lac d'Espingo Sun from 6am! a few stars still shone as the mountains began to glow orange red. We cooked up our breakfast in the refuge (a great refuge, with upstairs sleeping a little fire place, candles and even a little mouse family that had dug into the kindly left cous cous store), we made out way up the mountain accompanied by a technicolour dawn (stopping frequently to eat the juiciest bilberries!). The climb is a tiring one that is rewarded by views from the top. the ridge which runs north-south on either side of the col (Courette d'Esquierry) marks the departmental border - as you cross the col you leave Hautes Pyrenees and enter Haute Garonne. From the col you can try and do a bit of a hairy ridge walk to the higher lakes or head back down East to the valley bottom and take a well marked track up to the lake. We did the latter and charged up the valley showing off our experience and we cruised up past crowds that had driven up the valley to the car parks that you descend to. the walk down and then up the valley floor is mainly shaded by beautiful beech then pine forest and is great fun despite the day trippers, there are lots of places to take a break and the lakes are beautiful, lac d'Oo boasts a 273m waterfall! After the lake the knackered masses subside as you make your way up to the source of the water fall looking down on the glittering lake and the little cafe/refuge servicing the tourists (Chez Tintin '05.61.79.12.29). the climb is well worth the effort as you are rewarded with the even more beautiful and secluded Lac d'Espingo and its refuge (we camped by the lake - which is great for a dip! but the refuge looked great too- 1967m ':05.61.79.20.01 staffed late May-Early Oct). You can carry on south here to Spain in serious high country - but we needed supplies: the view up the route though is breathtaking, up to the glacier and even higher hanging valleys and lakes. The HRP can be reached in 2 hours from Espingo, there is another refuge is you fancy pushing on that high, the Refuge du Portillon ':05.61.79.38.15. at 2571m that is staffed june 15th - Sept 15th, onward travel from here requires equipment and ice experience.

*        Refuge d’Arrémoulit; ('05.59.05.31.79) a tiny place with room for 28 indoors and 10-12 more in a tent that is erected in peak season. €12 for a space inside, €6 outside and €13 for supper. The Cheats way; A cable car runs up from the North of Lac de Fabrèges (near Gabas), to the start of the Petit Train d’Artouste. The narrow gauge train runs up to the lake (where we camped in the thunderstorm) where it’s a 40min walk to the Refuge.

*        Refugio de Respumoso; ('(974)49.02.23) a very modern, large and comfy place open all year, only €7 the night ,€11for dinner and €3.50 for breakfast – Spanish refuges, unlike French ones, are not keen on you camping next to them though.

*        Refuge Wallon; ('05.62.92.64.28) one of the largest and oldest in the French Pyrenees, €12 the night but camping is allowed for free in a designated area (can get chilly though at 1860m we had ice on the tent in the morning).

*        The Military connection goes back to when it was a fashionable spar for Royalty, in 1677 the Duc de Maine, the sickly son of Louis XIV dropped by, giving the spars a cure all reputation (they are meant to be particularly good for gun shot wounds – maybe the French can ship some to America along with the desiccated wine pills they now flog over there). A military hospital was set up in the village by Napoleon who made the spars one of his five military thermes in 1744. There is still a military presence, there’s a mountain warfare school for the Armée de Terre and an R&R centre in the village, the training for the French contingent of the 91-95 Yugoslav (Bosnia Herzegovina) war was undertaken there. There are also Public baths in the village if your feeling a bit stiff or have just frozen yourself on a snowshoeing expedition for about €6 (more for Jacuzzi/massage type stuff).

*        Nature reserve; The Réserve Naturelle de Néouvielle, was France’s 1^st protected area, created in 1935. The reserve is a lake filled annex at the eastern tip of the main Parc National des Pyrénées. The park boasts some of Europe’s highest forests of mountain pine up to 2600m! This extreme range is made possible due to a predominantly southern exposure, unusual for the French Pyrenees, this same phenomena gives rise to a riot of smaller flora. As with most of the mountains the reserve status did not stop the French hunting all of the isards (mountain deer). The isard however was successfully reintroduced in 1987 (there is a very successful reintroduction scheme in the Pyrenees for many species – even fish! Near Cauterets we saw a crate of minnows being air lifted to the peaks!), and you should see marmots again here, and even golden eagles and the maybe a lamergeier (bearded vulture).

*       St-Lary Soulan has everything you might need to stock up on, with a cash machine, banks, supermarket, launderette, parks office,Office d'tourisme (rue principal:' 05.62.39.50.81) many guiding / activity companies,Hotels and a pharmacy.

*        Loudenvielle a friendly little village with a campsite, hostellerie (des Templiers (' 05.62.99.68.03) , shop, post office and ATM (water sports and parapente are also on offer).